Few islands taste so much of themselves as Bornholm. The white chimneys of the smokehouses are part of the scenery, 'Sol over Gudhjem' is a genuine icon, and the little fishing town of Svaneke gave rise to both Johan Bülow's Lakrids liquorice empire and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Here's what you really shouldn't miss — honest, seasonal and rooted deep in the island.
Nothing says Bornholm quite like smoked herring. All around the island you'll spot the distinctive white chimneys of the smokehouses — around ten are still working today. The herring is salted, dried and smoked over alder wood, and it's this old hand-crafted technique that gives it its unmistakable aroma.
Many smokehouses combine a restaurant, a fish shop and a sun terrace. In Gudhjem, Svaneke, Hasle, Allinge and Snogebæk you can get freshly smoked herring, often as a generous lunchtime seafood buffet. At places like Hasle Røgeri the smoking over open fire is still done entirely by hand.
The island's most famous dish is an open sandwich: smoked herring on dark rye bread, topped with chives, radishes and a raw egg yolk — the 'sun'. The name refers to the glowing yellow of the yolk.
'Sol over Gudhjem' tastes most authentic in a smokehouse with a sea view. Making it yourself takes only a handful of ingredients — but the flavour of freshly smoked island herring is something you'll only find here.
In 2007 local islander Nicolai Nørregaard opened Kadeau in a shack in the dunes at Dueodde beach — and kick-started Bornholm's food revolution. In 2016 Kadeau Bornholm earned its first Michelin star and has held it every year since. The cooking is uncompromisingly local: vegetables from the restaurant's own garden, wild herbs, and fresh and preserved ingredients across a tasting menu of around fourteen courses.
Kadeau is open only from spring to early October. A whole scene has grown up around it: Vinøst in Svaneke with natural wines and French-inspired bistro food, Nordlandet in Allinge, the Fredensborg seaside hotel in Rønne, and many small addresses working faithfully with island produce.
Johan Bülow's Lakrids empire also began on Bornholm: in 2007 he opened his first shop in the fishing town of Svaneke. Today his glossy liquorice balls are sold in upmarket boutiques in London and New York — from sweet to salty and on to raspberry, coffee and habanero. The original Svaneke shop even serves liquorice ice cream.
There's plenty made by hand, too: in the boiled-sweet kitchens (bolcheri) candy is pulled in front of guests, and Bornholm's ice creameries (in Svaneke, for instance) churn creamy organic ice cream in unusual flavours — from blue cheese to beer.
In Svaneke, Svaneke Bryghus brews its own beer in copper kettles, served alongside Bornholm-Nordic food behind doors that stay open all year. It's one of the island's most popular spots, with a broad choice of beers both with and without alcohol.
Beyond beer, look out for local juices and musts, aquavit and schnapps, and Bornholm mustard, which intrigues food lovers well beyond the island. The blue cheese from the Bornholms Andelsmejeri dairy in Klemensker, made from pure island milk, rounds off the table.
Since 2009, top chefs have competed each summer at the 'Sol over Gudhjem' contest on Gudhjem harbour — what began as a small idea from two 21-year-old brothers has grown into Denmark's largest and most prestigious cooking event, drawing tens of thousands of foodies.
The chefs create dishes using only Bornholm products. Alongside the chef competition there's a dessert contest, a product prize for the best local produce and a large food market. In 2026 the festival was held on 19–20 June.
The best island produce isn't in the supermarket but in small shops, at markets and straight from the producer. Fish and seafood are best bought right at the harbour or from the smokehouses; cheese, vegetables and preserves from the farm gate.
On Bornholm it's not about fancy presentation but honesty: knowing where the food comes from and tasting the landscape itself. Plan your visit to take in farm shops and small market days along the way — and book a table well ahead in high season.
Smoked herring, ideally as 'Sol over Gudhjem' — smoked herring on rye bread with chives, radishes and a raw egg yolk. Also worth seeking out: freshly smoked salmon and mackerel from the smokehouses, Lakrids liquorice by Bülow, Bornholm blue cheese and a beer from Svaneke Bryghus.
An open sandwich of smoked herring on dark rye bread, garnished with chives, radishes and a raw egg yolk on top — the 'sun'. It's Bornholm's culinary emblem and also the name of Denmark's biggest cooking competition.
At the smokehouses with their white chimneys — such as Gudhjem Røgeri, Svaneke Røgeri, Hasle Røgeri, Allinge/Nordbornholms Røgeri and Snogebæk. Many serve a generous seafood buffet at lunch. In the July–August high season it's wise to book a table.
Yes. Kadeau Bornholm near Dueodde earned its first Michelin star in 2016 and has held it since. It serves a Bornholm-Nordic menu with produce from its own garden and is open only from spring to early October, so reservations are recommended.
Johan Bülow, a Bornholm native, opened his first Lakrids shop in the fishing town of Svaneke in 2007. From there the brand grew into an internationally known name. The original Svaneke store offers the full range — right down to liquorice ice cream.
Traditionally in late June on Gudhjem harbour. Since 2009 it has grown into Denmark's largest cooking competition. In 2026 it took place on 19–20 June. Dates can change, so check the current date before you travel.
Very much so. Alongside smokehouses and restaurants there are farm shops, weekly markets and fish sold straight off the harbour. Many visitors rent a holiday home and cook with island produce — fish, vegetables, cheese and Bornholm mustard. See the accommodation guide for more.
Yes. Some smokehouses and restaurants such as Svaneke Bryghus are open year-round, and the quieter off-season makes booking a table easier. Purely seasonal places like Kadeau, however, open only from spring to early October.
Plan your journey, find a place to stay by the sea and leave time for the smokehouse, the farm shop and the Michelin star.
